France's rn7: a slow travel revival along a historic route
Forget the Autoroute du Soleil. A growing movement of travelers is rediscovering France's Route Nationale 7, a scenic artery that once pulsed with the energy of holidaymakers seeking sun-drenched Mediterranean shores. This isn't just a road trip; it's a journey back in time, a deliberate deceleration into a France often bypassed by the swift currents of modern travel.
A song, a law, and a nation on the move
The RN7's heyday – immortalized in Charles Trenet’s 1955 song, “L’amour joyeux est là qui fait risette, On est heureux Nationale 7” – coincided with a pivotal moment in French history. The 1936 law mandating paid holidays unlocked a mass exodus from the industrial north towards the Mediterranean, transforming the RN7 into a vibrant emblem of vacances. Imagine the scene: petrol stations teeming with activity, families packed into diminutive 2CVs, and the aroma of roadside cafes mingling with the scent of pine trees. Thierry Doillon, a vintage car enthusiast and restorer of a 1950s petrol station along the route, embodies this enduring appeal.
While the Autoroute du Soleil slashed journey times in the 1970s, dimming the RN7’s initial brilliance, a counter-trend is emerging. The rise of ‘slow tourism’ – a conscious embrace of deliberate travel, prioritizing experience over speed – has breathed new life into this historic route. The subtle markers, the simple red-and-white bornes dotting the landscape every kilometer, now invite exploration rather than simply being navigational cues.
My recent journey began on Paris’s Place d’Italie, a chilly September morning contrasting sharply with the memories of sun-kissed adventures. Trading Thierry’s 2CV for a more modern Citroën, I nonetheless felt the thrill of embarking on a southward trek, the grey Parisian skyline receding as Napoleonic plane trees lined the road, guiding my way. The absence of screaming billboards—replaced by faded ghost signs and charming Relais Routiers—added to the route’s unique appeal.
The culinary landscape along the RN7 is as compelling as its scenery. From Michelin-starred chef Michel Troisgros’s influence radiating from Roanne to the artisan boulangeries and pâtissiers like Pierre-Yves at Maison Mure, the route is a gastronomic pilgrimage. A lunch at Le Central in Roanne, featuring a volcanic île flottante dubbed “Mont Fuji,” truly launched the delicious second act of my journey. The visual highlight, however, was the meticulously restored Ozo petrol station, a testament to a bygone era where a “godmother” – the station’s attendant – offered 24/7 assistance to weary travelers.
The route's history is inextricably linked to the Michelin Guide, a trusted companion for generations of French holidaymakers. Legendary chefs like Eugénie Brazier and Fernand Point, whose La Pyramide in Vienne earned three Michelin stars in the 1930s, cemented the RN7’s reputation as a culinary destination.
The residents of Lapalisse, perhaps recognizing the absurdity of traffic jams, even hold a biennial “Embouteillage” party to celebrate the nostalgic bottlenecks of the 1960s. This playful embrace of the past underscores the RN7’s enduring charm.
From vineyards yielding exceptional wines to the ancient Roman ruins of Fréjus, each kilometer offers a glimpse into France's rich heritage. My journey concluded in Fréjus, where Napoleon himself once rested en route from Egypt. The RN7 isn't merely a road; it’s a tapestry woven with history, gastronomy, and a refreshing rejection of the relentless pace of modern life. It’s a reminder that sometimes, the most rewarding destinations are found not by speeding past, but by savoring every turn.