Kids' menus: are we failing the next generation of palates?
The predictable parade of fish fingers, chips, and pizza dominating children’s menus across the UK isn’t just a culinary bore – it’s potentially stunting the development of adventurous palates. A month-long investigation, fueled by parental guilt and a surprisingly divisive Substack post, reveals a hospitality industry seemingly content to serve beige. But are there glimmers of hope, and can we nudge our children towards a more exciting culinary future?
The seat-bait dilemma: why the same old options reign
Food writer Mallika Basu succinctly describes the current state of affairs: children’s menus are “seat bait,” designed to keep little ones occupied while parents attempt to enjoy a meal. The inherent commercial pressure on restaurants – to cater to what children will eat – creates a self-fulfilling prophecy. Yet, this cycle reinforces a diet that’s “boring, bland, and beige,” as Basu notes, hindering the chance to introduce new flavors and textures.
The quest began, innocently enough, with a four-year-old’s unwavering demand for fish and chips. But the nagging feeling that we, as parents, might be complicit in this culinary stagnation spurred a deeper dive. From Sardinian caprese salads to Peak District cottage pie, a series of restaurants were put to the test, alongside a discerning (and occasionally chip-nose) judge.
One early stumble came at Domo in Sheffield, where a chip-laden pizza, while a nod to Neapolitan tradition, seemed to perfectly encapsulate the problem. As Basu suggests, “Give them a little bit more agency, but also help them make more exciting and adventurous choices.” Subsequent stops, including the Devonshire Arms in Baslow, highlighted the crucial role of presentation; a lemon slice and a scattering of pea shoots, though often ignored, demonstrated an effort to elevate the mundane.
The turning point arrived at Tonkotsu in London. The simple act of offering colorful cups and kid-sized chopsticks transformed the experience, reminding us that successful children’s dining extends beyond the menu itself. The Yummy Yasai bento box, with its edamame and intriguing broth, proved a revelation, a welcome departure from ketchup-fueled chip consumption. Thomasina Miers’ observation – that children are more receptive to flavors when given some control – resonated deeply.
Then came the extraordinary: a five-course taster menu at Apricity in Mayfair. While a four-year-old’s reaction to beetroot gazpacho and leek agnolotti might be unpredictable (“Urgh, yucky, worms!”), the willingness to even try these ingredients felt like a significant victory. A “pre-dessert,” a term now permanently etched in family vocabulary, was met with wide-eyed wonder, even if subsequent courses were deemed “plastic” or “like a weed.”
The journey culminated at Dishoom, where a shared meal, featuring paneer tikka and chili butter-bhutta (ordered from the regular menu, naturally), underscored a vital point: embracing the adult menu, in appropriate portions, might be the most effective strategy. As Basu and Miers both emphasized, serving smaller portions of delicious food is far more appealing than contrived “kids’ options.”
The result? A four-year-old proclaiming a single tomato “the most delicious tomato in the world” and a resounding, if somewhat nonsensical, rating of “forty one hundred or a billion thousand” for a particularly memorable meal. The quest for the perfect kids’ menu might be ongoing, but one thing is clear: it’s time to abandon the beige and embrace the bold.
The UK restaurant industry faces headwinds, but a shift towards truly adventurous children’s menus – or, better yet, the inclusion of children in the broader dining experience – is not only a culinary necessity but also a potential lifeline.